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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.